What Rural Places Did the Fashion of the 1920s Take Place in

Six clothes styles proposed in the Sears-Roebuck (Chicago) Spring Catalogue, 1902, p. 1101. Catalogues and Women'southward Fashion by Shirley Lavertu Section shop catalogues were among the major agents of change that affected people'due south lives. They had considerable influence over women and the way they dressed. Bathing suits, girdles, and corsets were among the elements that were modified and completely inverse women's lives and appearance. Introduction | The Evolution of Fashion | The Slim Ideal | How to Become Sparse | Sunday Worshipping | Swimsuits | The Ageless Woman | From Corsets to Girdles | Girls' Article of clothing Modelled on Women'southward | Determination | Further Reading

Introduction In the past few years, the media have often been criticized for their more or less positive influence on people'due south lifestyles and opinions. At one time, catalogues tried to dictate behavioural standards in several areas. Published by section stores, they were very popular at the finish of the 19th century and even more so from the 1920s to the 1960s. Catalogue shopping, newspapers, and the feminine press in particular, greatly inverse women's lives in both urban and rural areas. The changes focused on being immature and thin, tanning, and the power of dazzler. Catalogues had a notable influence on women's consumption patterns and especially on the way women dressed. The section stores, including Eaton's, Simpson's, and Dupuis Frères, used the catalogues to propose new clothing styles. Offset and foremost, catalogues immune women to be in touch with the world of fashion. Women rarely saw what others wore in the rest of the world, or even in their own country, because mode publications were constitute infrequently in rural homes. The fashion pages in newspapers and a few magazines were the only sources of information. Catalogues were amidst the publications received by rural women and they amplified the influence of fashion. Withal, despite the vast selection establish in department store catalogues, rural women did non order much clothing. They preferred to buy cloth because there was a much greater variety in catalogues than at the general store and the price was lower. In the early part of the century, the choice of gear up-to-wear clothing was limited, so stores had large inventories of cloth. Women fabricated wear every bit long as it was less expensive than buying it fix-made. By copying the styles in catalogues, they were able to follow the trends while keeping costs downwardly. The popularity of set-to-wear fashion increased as the office of catalogues became more important.

The Evolution of Fashion What follows is an overview of a subject that is complex and vast. Women's fashion changed drastically from 1900 to 1960. In the early 20th century, article of clothing was supposed to hide the lower role of the body and modify its shape. Corsets, hoops, and innumerable petticoats compressed and modified women's figures. With time, clothing made the body look more natural and became more comfortable. Skirts were gradually shortened. In the early 1930s, clothes hems revealed an talocrural joint and gave a hint of a long slim leg. Sleeves became shorter and necklines lower. Dresses were fairly loose and had a slightly square shape, similar to a sweater. Then in the 1940s and 1950s, their shape inverse. The height of the apparel fit rather tightly, while the bottom was wide and full. Skirts remained calf-length, however. At that time, corsets made a improvement to make women's waists look slimmer.

The Slim Ideal Three styles of corsets sold in Eaton's Spring/Summer Catalogue, 1893, p. 15. At certain points in history, plump women were considered attractive. In the 19th and 20th centuries, however, the ideal adult female was supposed to be thin. The change in the standard of beauty was radical and occurred in two phases. During the outset phase, in the 19th century and at the turn of the century, the body was reshaped to make the waist look very thin. Corsets were promoted to achieve that look. Prima pills, Dupuis Frères Spring/Summer Catalogue, 1944, p. 77 (centre left). The catalogues of the flow promised that the use of a corset would give women an excessively slim waist, making the figure S-shaped when viewed from the side. Withal, corsets caused health problems; they hindered breathing and weakened back muscles. This statement, put forth past some reformers, has been the subject field of several discussions amongst fashion historians. Corsets deformed the body and prevented all natural movement. Women in both urban and rural areas discovered these new fashion trends through catalogues and tried to expect like the models, who were excessively thin. The employ of such models increased sales, but it also led to greater health bug. Women in rural areas were used to piece of work that was more physically enervating and they ordinarily had larger figures. As a result, they had to compress their rib muzzle to a greater caste to obtain the ideal slim shape. In doing so, they increased the health risks. In more than conservative areas, nevertheless, some women chose not to vesture corsets. The popularity of corsets decreased from 1920 to 1930, simply, in the second phase of change, fashion gurus tried to revive them in the 1950s by promoting crinolines.

How to Go Thin Catalogues promoted fashion and, in a manner, imposed new standards of beauty on social club. As ideological vehicles, they featured women whose measurements and age reflected the aesthetic standards of the period: They were thin, young, and beautiful. The means of achieving that were illustrated in the catalogues. Girdles and corsets were placed front and centre and, more than often than not, several pages were devoted to them. Corsets were available in various styles and fabrics with different types of stays to satisfy every gustatory modality. And, they came in all sizes: slim, medium, and full-figured. Catalogues even offered full-figured women'southward wear that fabricated them look thinner. In those published for Eastern Canada, the models usually met the general criteria of the fashion world: youth, beauty, and slimness. However, catalogues for the West featured women with fuller figures who modelled clothing that had a slimming effect. The emphasis on slimness was more noticeable in Eaton'due south Toronto catalogue than in the Winnipeg edition, for example. Weight-loss products were offered to support women in their quest to be thin. On folio 89 of its fall-and-wintertime 1934-35 catalogue, for example, Dupuis Frères featured an ad for Gomme Lacy's to aid women "lose weight safely." Slim women were considered refined and dignified. This new social standard was reflected in the new standard of beauty. Slimness also meant that women could afford to buy quality foods such as fruit, which was more than expensive.

Sunday Worshipping Beauty products for women, Eaton'south Leap/Summer Catalogue, 1927, p. 343. In the early 20th century, the dazzler ideal — fair skin —was no incertitude inspired by the Victorian era. Starting in the 1920s, tanning became more and more popular in Quebec. According to Suzanne Marchand, tanned skin was a sign of health and wealth. The practice of tanning became more widespread as swimsuits became more popular. However, information technology was prevalent mainly in urban areas. The inhabitants of rural areas were already tanned, since they spent a good role of the year working outdoors. In the 1920s, for some people, tanning was a very obvious style of showing that they had the means and time to lounge on the beach. Given the trend, catalogues began to feature women in swimsuits and offer products for sunbathing. Warnings were issued concerning the damaging effects of overexposure to the sun, but they were quite informal and were viewed more as a means of selling more sunscreen.

Swimsuits Swimsuits in "delightful colours," in the Dupuis Frères Mid-summer Catalogue, 1953, p. 4. The French Canadian Catholic clergy, particularly in Quebec, opposed the distribution of catalogues, claiming that they revealed too much of the female anatomy. The chief target of the boxing was the swimsuit because the clergy felt it was unacceptable for women to bare their bodies in such fashion. Yet, the first swimsuits were quite modest; the skirt was rather long and the tiptop did not take a depression neckline. Gradually, nevertheless, they began to reveal more of the body. Swimsuits in Dupuis Frères Mid-summer Catalogue, 1951, p. 5. To counter this fashion trend, which was considered indecent, the Catholic Women'south League was formed in Quebec in 1920. In the 1930s, the League proposed a swimsuit model that was approved by the clergy. Dupuis Frères in Montréal and Eaton'southward Toronto sold the model. Information technology is interesting to note that Dupuis featured swimsuits in its summer catalogue of 1923. This is all the more than pregnant because the company'southward mail service-order service was only a year onetime. The models in the catalogue wore large capes or beach pyjamas that hid most of the swimsuits.

The Ageless Woman Every woman can be beautiful at whatsoever age, so says the Dupuis Frères Spring/Summer Catalogue, 1944, p. 77. Every bit catalogues tried to promote the prototype of the ageless adult female, they completely ignored the importance of those who represented wisdom in their milieu because of their experience. They continued to feature young models to sell all types of clothing, even clothing for older women. Dazzler was regularly associated with youth. In the West, however, especially in the Eaton'due south catalogue published for that region, mature women modelled certain types of clothing, including hats. Catalogues offered a multitude of products for women who wanted to remain young: creams, soaps, hair treatments, bras, corsets, clothing that made them look younger, etc. In addition to beingness ideally slim, women had to look young. Amongst the products available were creams to keep their skin looking immature and pocket-sized carmine pills to help them maintain a youthful rosy complexion. Corsets and girdles allowed women of every background to maintain their youthful figures. Beauty was likewise widely featured in the catalogues. The women who posed for catalogues represented dream images. Catalogues promoted article of clothing that had all the elements needed to brand a woman cute. The Dupuis Frères spring-and-summer catalogue of 1961 advertised "Low-cal and slimming girdles for the beauty and youth of your body." [transl.]

From Corsets to Girdles In the 1920s, the waist was no longer emphasized past means of a corset. However, corsets did not disappear that easily from women's wardrobes because, in the 1940s and 1950s, waistlines were over again highlighted past the apply of crinolines. At that time, corsets tended to be replaced by bras and girdles, the latter being used to shrink the hips and lower abdomen while allowing a much greater liberty of movement. Panty girdles eventually replaced girdles, but information technology was not until the 1960s that their use became widespread. Corset sold in Dupuis Frères Spring/Summertime Catalogue, 1944, p. 16. Undergarments and accessories for women and girls in Goodwin's Fall/Winter Catalogue, 1911-12, p. 39. "Corsets that offer greater elegance," Dupuis Frères Fall/Winter Catalogue, 1929-30, p. 48. In the early on 20th century, the corset was a very of import item of article of clothing for women, especially in urban areas. Corsets fabricated their waists expect slim. Slimness was in at the time, merely non as much as today, according to some women. Girls began wearing corsets when they were young. At first, some complained that corsets were not very comfortable, but with time they got used to them. "Elegant styles that require little care," Simpsons-Sears Fall/Winter Catalogue, 1958-59?, p. 117. "Slips for girls," Simpsons-Sears Fall/Wintertime Catalogue (French edition), 1958-59?, p. 179. In rural areas, women wore corsets but on Sunday. Information technology was the preferred day for dressing like their urban counterparts. Because of the nature of their work, rural women could not afford to be very restricted in their movements. 2-piece corsets gave them more freedom just still express movement.

Girls' Clothing Modelled on Women's Historians take always noticed similarities between women's clothing and girls' clothing. In the early 20th century, at that place were differences; vesture designed for girls had deeper necklines and shorter sleeves. Yet, catalogue publishers targeted immature girls in their corset ads. There were no such similarities between the wear worn by men and young boys, but article of clothing worn past men did resemble that of adolescent boys to a certain extent. "Every bit radiant equally a spring day," Dupuis Frères Spring/Summer Catalogue, 1953, p. 38. Undergarments and nightwear for girls, Eaton's Spring/Summer Catalogue, 1959, p. 136.

Conclusion Catalogues provoked bully alter and had considerable influence on women'due south fashion, creating a new market that in turn affected production. Since mail-gild services allowed people to buy what was featured in catalogues, consumption patterns were too significantly transformed. Women discovered new fashions and trends and catalogues helped them stay up to date. Catalogues thus influenced culture, tastes, and consumer choices. They made the world of style more accessible.

Further Reading Boucher, François. 20,000 Years of Way: The History of Costume and Personal Adornment. New York: Harry N. Abrams Inc., 1987. Also published in Dandy United kingdom of great britain and northern ireland under the title A History of Costume in the West. London: Thames & Hudson, 1987. Butazzi, Grazietta. La mode: Art, histoire et société. Paris: Le Livre de Paris/Hachette, 1983. Collectif Clio. Quebec Women: A History, Micheline Dumont, ed. Toronto: Women'south Printing, 1987. Desanti, Dominique. La femme au temps des années folles. Paris: Stock/Laurence Pernoud, 1984. Deslandres, Yvonne and Florence Müller. Histoire de la mode au XXe siècle. Paris: Somogy, 1986. Leach, William. "Transformation in a Civilization of Consumption: Women and Department Stores, 1890-1925." Periodical of American History, 71(2) (September 1984): 319-342. Marchand, Suzanne. Rouge à lèvres et pantalon: des pratiques esthétiques féminines controversées au Québec, 1920-1939. Cahiers du Québec, Ethnologie, no. 116. Montreal: Hurtubise HMH, 1997.

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